Operation MARPAT - Painting a GOG G-1 with Woodland Digital Camoflage

On a slightly different topic (not miniatures, but painting related), I recently purchased a  GOG G-1 marker from Performance Paintball and decided I'd like it to customize it a bit.  Since I wear woodland MARPAT fatigues when I play paintball, I thought it made sense to paint my new marker to match.  This is the first time I've painted a marker so I thought it would be helpful to share my experiences and what I learned during the project.

Here's a shot of my new G-1 before the operation.

I spent time online researching the best methods and found a number of helpful sites with digital camouflage designs.  Over the course of a few days I found a few sites with good painting advice.  After watching several "how to" videos on YouTube, I was ready to move ahead with the operation.

I decided to paint the plastic body of the G-1 and left the barrel and regulator unpainted.  No sense accidentally painting a part that shouldn't be painted, right?  

My budget for the project was about $60 and included buying spray paint and the digital camouflage stencils.  I ended up buying a mix of Krylon and Rust-Oleum paints which are a very close match for the USMC Woodland MARPAT colors (see Figure A below). 

Figure A. Khaki, Hunt Club Green, Satin Nutmeg and Black are a pretty close match for woodland MARPAT colors. 

After reading a number of positive reviews, I decided to buy a set of male and female digital camouflage vinyl stencils from TacticalCamo.com for $31.  I found their stencils worked well during every stage of the operation.  They were easy to apply, stayed on during the painting and drying process, and were easy to remove with negligible paint peel during removal.   

In this post I'll walk through each step of the process sharing my experiences and what I learned along the way.  In total, I spent about 10 hours during the span of a week from start to finish.

Before you start painting, it's important to decide how accurately you want your marker to match the MARPAT camouflage scheme.  According to Wikipedia, the official USMC Woodland MARPAT colors include:

• Khaki
• Coyote Brown
• Forest Green
• Black

To get the closest match, the sequence of paint should be:

1. Paint with primer
2. Apply khaki paint
3. Apply forest green paint
4. Apply coyote brown paint
5. Apply black paint
6. Apply light coat of olive drab paint

I'll provide more detail regarding how to apply each paint and stencils to get the right color balance in the steps below.  I've also included timing to help illustrate how long each step of the project will take.

Steps:

1. Field strip the marker - Sunday 12PM.  

The first step was to break down the G-1 to remove the internal components and prepare the body for priming and painting.  I found an extremely helpful, well illustrated post with step-by-step instructions on the Paintball Africa forum by "NeilG" here.  Figure 2a shows the G-1 completely broken down with all components visible. 

2. Remove Rails - Sunday 1PM.  
I removed the picatinny rails from the sides and bottom of the marker (see Figure 1).  I doubt I'll attach anything to the side rails so it made sense to provide more real estate for camouflage paint.  It's also very difficult to paint the rails with stencils. 

To take the side rails off, you'll need to remove the screws then gently pry the rails off with an exacto blade or very thin putty knife since they're secured with epoxy.  I used a razor blade and sandpaper (220 grit) to remove the leftover glue from the surface of the marker  (see Figure 2b).   

Figure 1. Picatinny side and bottom rails removed for painting.  

Figure 2a. G-1 components and parts.  Be sure to label everything for re-assembly!

Figure 2b. The side rails are glued on.  I used a razor blade and sandpaper to remove the epoxy to provide a smooth finish for painting.

3. Clean Parts and Reassemble - Sunday 2PM
Before painting, it's important to clean the parts to remove any contaminants.  Since I painted the three main components - body block, pistol grip and adjustable stock (fully extended for obvious reasons), I washed all three using Windex and dryed them thoroughly with a clean microfiber towel.  If you prefer, you can wash them with a mild detergent like dish soap.  I use microfiber towels since they are excellent at drying and leave minimal fibers behind. Afterwards, I reassembled the three pieces of the marker.

4. Tape Paint Free Areas - Sunday 2:30PM

I used blue painters tape to seal areas which don't need to be painted including the trigger, handle (where the battery is stored) and the top of the loader. I also used a piece of dowel inside a plastic PVC pipe and a piece of paper inside the barrel to keep paint out.  It also worked well for holding and pivoting the marker during painting. 

Be sure to lightly sand the loader - the primer and paint will adhere better to plastic if smooth surfaces are lightly sanded. The body of the G-1 has a textured surface so I decided to apply primer only (see Figure 4), but feel free to lightly sand it also.  I'd suggest using sandpaper of 200 grit or higher to avoid removing too much plastic during sanding.

Figure 4. G-1 is taped and ready for priming.

5. Apply Primer - Sunday 3PM 
Using my improvised outdoor table (two sawhorses and some paneling), I sprayed a light coat of Rust-Oleum Gray Primer to the entire body of the marker (see Figure 5a) letting one side dry for a minute or two before continuing.  The temperature was in the mid-80s with a light breeze so it didn't take long for each side (top, bottom, left and right) to dry. I rotated the marker to ensure primer was applied evenly across all of the surfaces.

It's always better to apply several thin coats rather than one thick coat.  That way the paint doesn't pool or drip on the surface of the marker.  To help prevent fingerprints on the marker, I recommend using nitrile plastic gloves during painting.

 Figure 5a. I like Rust-Oleum's clip on spray paint trigger - it helps turn that can of paint into a spray gun!

Figure 5b.  Looking good after one coat of primer.

I situated the G-1 in front of a fan for drying.  Between the dehumidifier and the warm temperature (it's been a hot summer so far) it was dry by the next morning.

On Monday afternoon, I lightly sanded the surface of the marker with 320 grit sandpaper and paid particular attention to the loader (see Figure 5c).  Afterwards, I sprayed a microfiber towel with Windex and wiped down the entire marker to ensure all of the loose plastic and primer was removed before painting.

Figure 5c.  Lightly sand the primer coat after it is completely dry to provide good adhesion for paint.

6. Apply Khaki Paint - Monday 4:30PM
When painting digital camouflage, it's a good idea to start with the lightest color. Khaki also happens to be the least frequent color included in the MARPAT digital design.  I applied a light coat of Krylon Camouflage Khaki paint (see Figure 6a).

It took a little extra work due to windy conditions, but I was able to cover the entire marker in a light coat (no primer visible) and brought it back inside to dry in front of a fan on my work table.  By the next morning it was dry and ready for the next step - applying stencils!

 

Figure 6a.  Painting outside can be a bit trying, especially when the wind is blowing more than 5mph! 

7. Apply Male Stencils - Tuesday 4:45PM
Up to this point, painting the G-1 with primer and the khaki coat are quick and easy.  The next step in the process is applying male stencils that will preserve the khaki color in the camouflage scheme on the marker.  Since Khaki is one of the low density colors in the MARPAT camouflage, a minimal number of stencils should be applied.

I was pleased to see the stencils I purchased from TacticalCamo.com (see Figure 7a) included a wide variety of random digital shapes and designs. The roll was about 12" x 36" and included enough stencils to complete this project with a few left over.  I paid a small additional fee to include female stencils and I'm glad I did because I ended up using all of them in the last painting stage.  

I used an X-Acto knife to peel the vinyl stencils from the backing and applied them in random locations on the marker (see Figures 7b and 7c) keeping them parallel to an imaginary line running from the front to the back of the marker through the barrel.  That ensured the camouflage would look right after painting.  

I found cutting the stencils into three or four smaller pieces worked very well given the many vertical and beveled surfaces on the G-1.  It took about half an hour to apply the stencils and press them securely to the surface before taking the marker outside for painting.

Figure 7a.  The blue vinyl sheet includes male stencils which preserve the khaki color through other coats of paint.

Figure 7b.  Since khaki is minimally present in woodland MARPAT camouflage, I applied the stencils sparingly.

Figure 7c.  I cut the male stencils into smaller sections to fit the varying surface levels on the G-1.

8. Apply Hunt Club Green Paint - Tuesday 5:30PM
After confirming the vinyl stencils were in place with no loose edges (to avoid paint seepage) it was time to apply the green coat.  I took the G-1 outside and applied a coat of Rust-Oleum Satin Hunt Club Green which is the closest match I could find to the shade of green used in Woodland MARPAT camouflage (see Figure 8a).  After painting, I took the G-1 downstairs and let it dry overnight in front of a fan on my workbench.

Figure 8a.  Left side of G-1 - smooth coat of paint with solid coverage and stencils visible.

Figure 8b.  Right side of G-1.  If you look closely, you can see the male stencils (darker areas).

9. Apply Male Stencils - Wednesday 6PM
After confirming the green paint was completely dry, I started applying male stencils.
Using an X-Acto knife, I peeled the vinyl stencils from the backing and applied them in random locations on the marker keeping in mind they cover the green color until the final coat of paint is applied.  Once I was sure they were situated correctly, I pressed down firmly to eliminate any air bubbles.

Since green is one of the highest density colors in the woodland MARPAT camouflage, I had to apply a large number of stencils to preserve that color.   It took me almost two hours to apply the stencils and press them securely to the surface before taking the marker outside for painting (see Figures 9a and 9b).

Figure 9a.  Right side of G-1.  Male (blue) stencils applied to preserve green color.

Figure 9b.  Left side of G-1.  Male (blue) stencils applied to preserve green color.

10. Apply Nutmeg Paint - Wednesday 8:45PM
After confirming the vinyl stencils were secure with no loose edges (to avoid paint seepage) I was ready to paint.  

I took the G-1 outside and sprayed a coat of Rust-Oleum Satin Nutmeg onto the G-1.  It's the closest commercially available color I could find that matches the coyote brown color used in Woodland MARPAT camouflage (see Figure 10a).  After applying a solid coat, I took the marker downstairs and let it dry overnight in front of a fan on my workbench.

Figure 10a.  Right side of G-1 with nutmeg (coyote brown) paint applied drying on workbench. 

11. Remove Male Stencils and Apply Female Stencils - Thursday 4:45PM
At this point it was time to remove the male stencils from the G-1.  After drying for 16 hours, the paint was dry so I began gently peeling the stencils from the marker using an X-Acto knife.  I was pleased to find the stencils did a great job of protecting the paint underneath with only a few spots on the loader where the paint peeled during stencil removal. 

Once all of the male stencils were removed, it was time to add female stencils that would allow me to add black paint to the G-1.  I used the female stencils to outline areas where the black paint would look appropriately random in the big picture.  Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of the removal procedure or the female stencil application as we were a bit pressed for time.

12. Apply Black Paint - Thursday 8PM
After confirming the female stencils were in place and as secure as possible (the edges are often loose in non-flat areas on the marker), it was time to paint. With the help of two friends (thanks Steve and Chris!) I took the G-1 outside and sprayed a coat of Krylon Camouflage Black onto the female stencils. 

The female stencil squares are approximately 2" x 2" so I created a mask (to avoid over spray) by cutting a square of a slightly smaller dimension out of a Chinet kitchen plate which I placed over each stencil.  It worked well when applying black paint to flat areas on the marker, but didn't work so well on rounded or angled edges.  With assistance from my helpers, we improvised and used four small pieces of cardboard to "frame" the areas with the female template to avoid over spray outside the stencil area.  It took about half an hour to apply the black paint (see Figure 12a and 12b).   

Upon closer examination, I noticed a few spots where black paint over spray hit the other colors.  I sprayed some paint into a plastic cup and used a small hobby paintbrush to re-paint the correct color onto the marker.  I also hand painted several additional digital designs onto the marker in spots that looked too "empty" (especially on the stock which is very difficult to paint with stencils) which took about an hour.  After that, I placed the G-1 in front of a fan on my workbench and let it dry overnight.

Figure 12a.  Right side of G-1 with all four colors. 

Figure 12b.  Left side of G-1 with all four colors. 

13. Apply Olive Drab Paint - Friday 8PM
At this point the four primary colors in the woodland MARPAT camouflage scheme were looking pretty good.  However, when I compared the G-1 to my MARPAT fatigues, I decided it could use a little more green so I decided to add a very light coat of olive drab to give all of the colors a subtle green tint.

Before painting, I used painters tape to cover the hand grip, trigger and loader cover.  I also inserted a rolled up sheet of paper into the barrel (see Figure 13).  Next, I sprayed a very light coat of Krylon Camouflage Olive Drab from about 12" onto the G-1.  I was very pleased with the results, and set the gun aside to dry overnight.

Figure 13.  Almost finished - ready for the last light coat of olive drab paint!

14. Apply Clear Matte Finish - Saturday 9AM
With the paint dry, it was time to seal it in.  I sprayed a coat of Rust-Oleum Matte Clear coat onto the G-1 and let it dry for two hours in front of the fan on my workbench.  After that, I applied a second coat to help protect the paint and give it a nice flat finish (see Figure 14).

Figure 14.  Sealed and delivered!

15. Reassemble G-1 - Saturday 12:30PM
With the paint and clear coats dry, it was time to reassemble the G-1 and take some pictures.  I carefully disassembled the painted sections then reassembled the marker.  I was pleased to see that taping the gun helped prevent unwanted paint from getting inside the handle or barrel. 


Overall, I'm very pleased with how the project turned out and how the G-1 looks after the operation (Figure 15a). I learned quite a bit during the project and now know how to field strip the marker with confidence.  

The last picture shows how well the G-1 blends with woodland MARPAT camouflage - I'm looking forward to testing it in the field during our next paintball game! (Figure 15b).

 Figure 15a.  Ready to hit the course and put some paint down range!

 

Figure 15b.  It's a pretty good match with woodland MARPAT material - the flash makes it look lighter than it really is in normal lighting conditions.

I hope you found this helpful.  Feel free to drop me a line if you have any questions!

2006 - Aliens Miniature Battle - Year 6

After a two year sabbatical from running my Aliens Miniature Battle event at the local conventions, I returned with a new scenario entitled "Survival of the Fittest" for SIMCON XXVIII.  This event was held on April 1st at the University of Rochester.  

When we designed the AMB rules, we felt it was important to simplify combat so the players could focus on squad tactics.  We also included role playing to make the game fun to play.   After all, who doesn't enjoy quoting lines from Aliens like, "Another glorious day in the Corps.  A day in the Marine Corps is like a day on the farm.  Every meal's a banquet, every paycheck a fortune, every formation a parade.  I LOVE the Corps!"  By this point in the evolution of the rules, we had finalized the set at 6 pages which was short enough for both new and old players to assimilate and flip through during the event.  We also designed character cards (see Figure 1 below) which summarize vital information needed to manage a squad of Colonial Marines.   I'll explain the rules in more detail in a future post.  

In addition to battling a xenomorph infestation, the scenario included a surprise twist beyond the now semi-boring bug hunt.  A detachment of Weyland-Yutani Corporate Mercenaries led by a Bishop synthetic (as in the last part of Alien 3) were on site attempting to acquire a viable xenomorph specimen their bio-weapons division could utilize and sell to the highest bidder.  Their goal was to capture one of the alien warriors using a rapid freeze method that would place the specimen into a cryogenic suspension (remember Predator 2?).



In the end, the Colonial Marines were victorious.  Through a combination of smart tactics, harnessing the Marine "killer instinct," and a little bit of luck, Lt. Steel led his men to rout both the xenomorph population and corporate mercenaries and earned high praise from the Captain sipping tea aboard the dropship carrier orbiting Klondike IV.  Until next year...

 

    Figure 1.  Before the event begins, the APC (1/35th scale Halcyon Model) idles on the tarmac outside the mine on Klondike IV.  Note player character cards with figures.

    Figure 2.  Two squads sweep the mine for xenomorph activity.  Using squad tactics makes all the difference between waking up in a cocoon next to the Queen and walking out alive.

    Figure 3.  Random encounters are an easy way to follow in the footsteps of the Aliens movies.  You never know when a pair of warriors will drop from the ceiling to get the party started!

   Figure 4.  Colonial Marines fight a two front war against Aliens and WY Corporate Mercs.  Throw in a few grenade triggered rock slides and things really get interesting.  

  Figure 5.  Using the same tactics that are successful at eliminating Aliens, the Colonial Marines carve through Weyland-Yutani Corporate Mercs (represented here by Imperial Snowtrooper figures). They wisely massed their firepower and quickly eliminated the mercs.  Note Bishop and the cryogenic frozen Alien drone in the lower right of the photo.

  Figure 6.  A close up of the image displayed in Figure 5. Note the rubble from grenade created cave ins.

  Figure 7.  Colonial Marines maintain numerical superiority in the fight against the WY Corporate Mercs.  They only sustained two WIA casualties to the five merc KIA. 

2003 - Aliens Miniature Battle - Year 5

After five years of running the Aliens Miniature Battle (AMB) event, we started to see the usual suspects signing up to play at local gaming conventions.  They enjoyed playing the game, and we enjoyed throwing large numbers of aliens at them in an attempt to keep the game enjoyable but still challenging.  

After successfully winning the game, veteran players knew the right tactics to use - always keep your squads working together, don't wander off by yourself, and by all means, never, ever step in front of a Colonial Marine with an incinerator shooting at an Alien!


In March 2003, we decided to up the ante and introduce a new element into the AMB scenario.  Killing the Queen each time was becoming too predictable.  It was time for something more sinister and deadly to start hunting the Marines besides plain aliens.

    Figure 1.  To help players decide which Colonial Marine squads to play, we displayed the miniatures and reference cards in the hive area located at the far end of the mine.

    Figure 2.  In a bold move, the players decided to perform an "end run" maneuver and sent two squads sprinting down the side of the mine complex to reach the hive.  This hazardous move worked, but imagine their surprise when they didn't find the Queen waiting for them.

   Figure 3. A squad of Colonial Marines defends the mine entrance, using a combination of smart gun, pulse rifles and incinerators to keep the Aliens at bay. 

    Figure 4.  An overhead view of the entrance to the hive located on the left side of the fourth and fifth terrain boards.  The white and blue poker chips represent cover fire (e.g., the direction they have their weapons pointed) in case of Alien attack.   
 

    Figure 5.  After canvassing the mine complex without finding a Queen, the players weren't sure what to expect.  After losing several Marines under suspicious circumstances (e.g., the last Marine in a squad disappears unexpectedly), they finally discovered what had been stalking them - not just one but two Predators.

    Figure 6. As expected, a fierce firefight broke out between the Colonial Marines and the Predators.  With a few lucky strikes, the Marines were able to take out the first Predator shortly after combat began (note miniature in top left of photo above).

    Figure 7. The second Predator proved more difficult but a combination of smart tactics and a little bit of luck helped the Marines prevail.

2002 - Aliens Miniature Battle - Year 4

In light of the release of "Prometheus" tomorrow (6/8/12) and its association with the Alien universe, I thought it fitting to share pictures from past Alien Miniature Battle events.  


First, the background.  Aliens Miniature Battle (AMB) was a custom rules set my friend Steve and I designed which was inspired by the Leading Edge ALIENS board game.  We liked the fast pace of the game and wanted to scale it up for use with the Leading Edge 25mm series of Aliens figures.   After numerous play tests and rewrites, we finalized a 6 page set of rules which cover everything from Alien movement and melee attacks to how many hits it takes to kill a Predator.  More about the Predator in a later blog...

The first AMB event titled "Return to Klondike IV" was held March 27, 1999 at the University of Rochester at SIMCON XXI.  The scenario briefing describes a "technical issue" at a gold mine located on an ice ball planet named Klondike IV.  When the facility failed to transmit an update, the Colonial Marines were sent to investigate.  As you might imagine, there were Aliens there, and lots of them.  At that point I owned 5 or 6 boxes of the Leading Edge Aliens miniatures and used all of them in the event.  Unfortunately this took place before I purchased by first digital camera (a Kodak DC4800) in mid 2001.


Fast forward to SIMCON XXIV - held March 23, 2002 at the University of Rochester in the Douglas Dining Hall (shown below).

This AMB scenario was titled, "More Unfinished Business On Klondike IV."  Colonial Marines were dispatched for the fourth time to determine the status of the Auric-DeBerg mine and to secure the facility.  It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out what happened when they landed.  Fortunately a veteran command crew worked well as a team to overcome the many challenges encountered during the op.


"Operation Mole" was considered a success as the mine reopened shortly after the mission was completed.  Although the Colonial Marine detachment experienced a significant number of casualties (>50%), they were able to defeat the Queen and completely eliminate all traces of the exomorph infestation as outlined in the after action report.  Here are several images uploaded to the flight recorder on the dropship carrier orbiting Klondike IV - note time stamps in lower right corner of frames.

     Figure 1.  View of the mining facility from landing pad.  The APC is awaiting clearance  to enter the facility.
 

     Figure 2.  After entering the mine, several Colonial Marine squads encounter Aliens and place sentry guns for additional security.

     Figure 3.  Minor casualties were sustained after the initial firefight; note the decapitated Alien skulls.  The synthetic Bishop (face down on the cave floor) was repaired with minimal loss of functionality.  This proved extremely fortunate later in the mission.

     Figure 4.  Use of Colonial Marine incinerators proved extremely effective in preventing Alien melee attacks and elimination of exomorphs without acid splash.

     Figure 5.  Upon reaching the end of the mine, the Colonial Marines found the hive next and engaged the Queen.  Note unlucky soldier grabbed in mid-air captured by the Queen.  His next of kin were notified upon the successful completion of the mission.

     Figure 6.  High level view of the battle with the Queen shortly before she changed direction and stampeded toward the mine entrance, causing substantial casualties.

     Figure 7. Leaving the power loader heavily damaged and several bodies in her path, the Bishop synthetic sacrifices himself in a last-ditch melee attack against the Queen (note miniature under Queen's carapace) to prevent further loss of life.

    Figure 8.  Final footage recorded by surveillance camera at mine entrance.  The Queen was terminated shortly afterward thanks to the valiant efforts of the Bishop synthetic.
 
If you'd like to see more AMB pictures from other conventions, let me know and I'll dig deeper into the vault...

Introduction

I've created this blog to share my experiences of past and future battles which includes three decades of modeling miniature terrain and running dozens of war games.

Since this is my first log entry, I'll start by sharing the types of war games I enjoy playing along with respective rules:

• Modern era military (Force on Force)
• Star Trek (Custom rules)
• Star Wars (Tomorrow's War)
• Aliens/Predator (Custom rules and Tomorrow's War)
• Sci-Fi (Tomorrow's War)

In honor of the title of this blog, I'll start with one of my favorite creations: Aliens Miniature Battles.  With the help of several friends, we created a custom rule set (note the colored dowels - range markers) which worked well with the original Leading Edge ALIENS 25mm miniatures and a custom built layout that includes five 2'x4' boards. 

I built the terrain using 2" thick styrofoam for the base boards and cave walls.  With a little help from spackle, paint and gravel ballast, it was transformed into a mining colony with an Alien infestation that returned year after year at our local convention.  Players enjoyed the integration of motion trackers and cover fire which were represented by poker chips.  To add to the suspense, the players had to explore the mine in order to reveal hidden sections as shown in the picture below. 

 I'll share more pictures in my next post.